Chocolate Hotel
Until 1989 the south of Bahia was a prosperous region of cacao farmers. The cacao was the critical factor for the local economy, and the abundance was such that no one ever believed that this could ever change - the farmers were spending more than they had and not developing any other type of skill or economic activity due to the certainty that the income would flow in with the next harvest.
At some point, it no longer did.
In 1989, the fungus “vassoura de bruxa” (witch’s broom) attacked the region destroying all crops and the dream of infinite abundance, turning around the fate of all who depended on it. The region went from very rich to very poor in the blink of an eye. There was nothing left to sell, nothing left to offer.
The fungus is still nowadays present in cacao plantations. It is not something that one can get rid of entirely. It is a question of how each farmer deals with it (some use the crops that contain it to sell the product for a low price, others choose to focus only on the highest quality crop - but for more info about the knowledge I acquired about the cacao itself, check out the blog post with all insights on the subject 😉).
Nevertheless, the region is still nowadays known as the cacao route/coast - starting from Canavieiras and stretching up to Itacaré, the city where the recently opened Chocolate Hotel is established. That’s where my home was for 20 days in March 2023.
I lived 20 days in this boutique hotel, getting immersed in all that the place has to offer - 14 rooms of different categories, a pool that makes you want to stay in as long as you can, with a pool bar, the NIBS restaurant with fresh ingredients, including seasonings of their own vegetable garden and a view that will take your breath away. You’ll see Itacaré from above, the ocean, the river, the rainforest and the movement of the clouds in the sky. And all of that is surrounded by diverse green vegetation, flowers and palm trees with fresh coconuts (that are served by the pool). I think this says it all, doesn’t it..? A place you will want to include on your bucket list.
Upon arrival, the super friendly team will serve you a welcome drink containing cacao honey (the juice retrieved from the cacao fruit) and other yummy ingredients, turning it into a blend that refreshes and calms you instantly. During your stay, you’ll have the possibility of tasting some local specialities - nibs (crushed coca beans), dried cupuaçu (a local fruit that stems from the same tree family as the cacao tree), and of course chocolate from a local producer (Fazenda Taboquinhas - where I was lucky to go myself for a visit and get to know the lovely couple behind it all - Osvaldo and Dona Laura). You will instantly realize that the chocolate you buy in the supermarket is nothing like this tree-to-bar speciality.
The region is not only the capital of cacao, but it is also known for its stunning beaches - white sand, waves to surf, hidden gems that only those willing to walk a bit will experience, and of course, tons of palm trees as it would appear in those travel magazines, where you desire is to catch the first plane and get immersed in the summer breeze the paradise offers.
When coming here, I highly recommend renting a car. Take a flight to Ilhéus (the nearest airport) and drive your way to this getaway. Want to know the good news? The local temperature is very constant; thus, at any time of the year you need an escape, you can come here, and the weather won’t differ much. Pretty handy, hey? During springtime (around October), you might be lucky and get a glimpse of the humpback whales. Make sure to visit all the little beaches the surrounding hosts, each showing its own charm.
The town of Itacaré is cute. Pituba Street is where everything happens - you’ll find restaurants, shops, and everything else you might look for. You won’t want to miss watching the sunset from the Ponta do Xaréu and seeing Brazil’s only squared lighthouse.
To sum up, the Chocolate Hotel is an excellent way to hide away and get some proper rest while enjoying the beauty around you. I haven’t experienced it during my stay (time was short to cover it all), but rumours say the region is also great for biking. So if you’re into biking, surfing, hiking, relaxing, dining well and getting to know a distinct culture (and this is valid for foreigners and Brazilians equally), this place is for you (a little bit of everything for everyone 😉).
